• The cover of the book Barbarian Days

    Barbarian Days

    I’m not worthy! This Pulitzer Prize-winning nonfiction story follows the life of an old school surfer. I mean, this guy is the genuine article, the real deal. He even discovered what are now legendary surf breaks. If you want to travel around the world and get lost in exotic places, feel like you really know what it’s like to surf, and the nitty-gritty of surf culture, check out Mr. Finnegan’s Opus de Agua, Barbarian Days.

  • The cover of the book This Is Paradise

    This Is Paradise

    Set in Hawaii, this collection of beautifully-written stories chronicles the real lives of locals, and puts a big solar eclipse across paradise. The title story of a hotel housekeeping staff—women who surf the local breaks on their off time—gives you a messy view of the not-so-benign, vacation-happy tourists who inhabit the hotel. Get it before you book a flight to the islands. Then read it on the beach. Don’t forget your SPF 50!

  • The cover of the book The Surf Guru

    The Surf Guru

    The Surf Guru is an old, graying surf-merch tycoon who sits on his deck sipping Chianti, watching young surfers shred a Nor Cal break—a dude so powerful the locals think he controls the tides. With a character like that, I’m in. If the title story doesn’t get you, the other eleven will. Among them: two drunken drifters who decide to care for an abandoned baby, and a losing politician on the campaign trail. Mr. Dorst has a way of balancing humor with the debris of the human condition, a combination that’s guaranteed to leave you heartbroken and at the same time, stoked.